Road to the Isles

While Scotland boasts some outstanding rail links, such as the West Highland Line, for sheer flexibility driving the countrys highways can be the easiest option by far. Some of the roads are certainly ancient, and some could definitely do with a bit of modern care and attention, but if time is not pressing the views will be more than worth the effort. And roads are not just for driving on. They can be walked and biked to allow a more leisurely appreciation of the glorious scenery.

Low road or high road, many of Scotland's more rural routes are rudimentary and functional. Roads that evolved from meandering old tracks that hug the contours of mountain passes used for centuries to herd beasts to market. Others, in marked contrast, which are straight and true, and tell the story of Roman occupation. Then there are the single-track highland roads chiselled out in the aftermath of the 1745 Rising and which were designed to get government troops into the area as fast as possible.

"As beautiful as England and parts of Wales are, they do not hold a candle to Scotland. There is an aura of mystery, enchantment and ancientness that pervades Scotland and when coupled with the rugged and untamed beauty of this land, it creates an unforgettable adventure."

Pioneering Road Engineers: Thomas Telford and John Loudon Macadam It was the impact of two Scotsmen, both born in the 1750s, that revolutionised road travel. Before Thomas Telford and John Loudon McAdam came on the scene, by far the most efficient and quickest way of getting from A to B was not on land, but on water be it the sea or inland canals. But the engineering genius of Telford and the durable surfaces that McAdam invented changed all of that.

Thomas Telford was apprenticed to a stonemason in Edinburgh at the age of fourteen. But he was soon drawn to the bigger opportunities on offer in England where he would establish a reputation as one of the most influential bridge and canal builders in the country. His major achievements include the Menai suspension bridge, then the longest structure of its kind in the world. In Scotland he is best remembered for the twenty year master plan which he devised in 1801 to improve communications in the hitherto remote and inaccessible highlands. As well as constructing the Caledonian Canal and several deep-water harbours, Telford laid out almost a thousand bridges connecting more than 900 miles of new roads. It was a monumental achievement and helped secure his reputation as "The Colossus of Roads". Many still provide a lifeline for remote communities in the highlands and while it might not have been Telford's primary intention they are a boon for tourists. It is mark of just how significant this shepherd's son from the Scottish Borders was, that on his death in 1834, he was buried amongst Kings in Westminster Abbey.

Telford's contemporary, John McAdam, was also an engineer and road builder who likewise spent a long time working in England. But McAdam's claim to fame came not from the mileage he constructed but rather from the way his roads were designed. It is no exaggeration to say that Macadamisation represented the greatest advance in road building since Roman times. His design included a camber which allowed rainwater to drain and the base was tightly rather than loosely bound gravel, on a firm foundation of large stones. This method was universally copied and by the end of the nineteenth century most of the main roads in Europe were built according to the McAdam method.

Scotlands Great Road JourneysIn addition to Scotlands tourist site for Scotland, www.visitscotland.com, a huge array of blog sites offer recommendations and advice on travel in Scotland. Jeff Ruemmele from Indianapolis in the United States told one that "As beautiful as England and parts of Wales are, they do not hold a candle to Scotland. There is an aura of mystery, enchantment and ancientness that pervades Scotland and when coupled with the rugged and untamed beauty of this land, it creates an unforgettable adventure." Here are suggestions for some of the best:

Within easy distance from Glasgow, the A811 takes you along the shores of Loch Lomond, one of the most delightful stretches of open water in Britain. From there the options include a short journey on the A813 to Dumbarton with its dramatic cliff top castle. Alternatively continue past the western side of Loch Lomond, up to the A83 to Tarbet and then past Arrochar and on to the viewpoint of the aptly named Rest-and-be-Thankful at the junction of B828.
Over in the east a quick dash from Edinburgh across the Forth Road Bridge and a swing round the motorway takes you to the Ancient Kingdom of Fife. The A915 and A917 weave through a golden fringe of old fishing villages before emerging at St Andrews, the home of golf.
It was the journey from Invergarry along the A87 to the Kyle of Lochalsh and the Isle of Skye that captivated Jeff Ruemmele and his wife. The choice at the Kyle is to seek out a ferry to journey over-the-sea, like Bonnie Prince Charlie in the wake of the Battle of Culloden in 1746, or take the easier single span bridge, itself most pleasing on the eye. Once on Skye, the road fans out offering impressive vistas of the Cuillan Mountains and more rugged routes around the coast. On the west coast of the Sleat peninsula the A851 climbs over the shoulder of the breathtaking Sgurr na-h-Iolaire ridge.
Another island with an equally strong claim to one of the best drives in the country is Arran. Often called Scotland in miniature, the main A841 circumnavigates the island in a gentle, undulating manner offering glimpses of seals, dolphins and occasionally basking sharks in the Firth of Clyde. A more challenging drive that is more than worth the effort is the well-named "String" that scythes up and through the middle of Arran. One of Thomas Telford's many creations, the climb from the western end is matched only by the spectacular drop down to the village of Brodick in the east.
Back on the mainland there are many who would champion the glories of the single track road that winds its way through Glen Affric along the shore of Loch Beinn a' Mheadhoin. Twenty miles to the west of the Highland capital Inverness, Glen Affric boasts some of the last remnants of the great Pine Forests that once covered the entire northern part of Britain. A haven for birdwatchers and alive with wildlife.
But don't forget the brilliant byways of the borders. Many visitors to Scotland are oblivious to the charms of the area as they push on to the highlands as quickly as possible. But there are some dramatic mountain passes, such as the Devil's Beeftub, five miles north of Moffat on the A701 Edinburgh road. Named after a hollow in the hills, this is where Border Reivers (The reivers were both English and Scottish and raided both sides of the border impartially, so long as the people they hit had no powerful protectors and no connection to their own kin.) hid stolen cattle after raids on the English. It was also a hiding place for outlaws, ne'er-do-wells and rebels. The views from the car park are stunning and the sense of history all pervading. A small plaque tells something of one of the Beeftub's stories

To The Memory of
John Hunter, Covenanter.
Shot in the hills opposite
In the year 1675

Enchantment PromisedFrom the northern isles of Orkney and Shetland to the southern uplands on the English border from the thumping waves of the wild Atlantic to the breaking surf of the North Sea, the whole of Scotland offers fabulous and diverse experiences. Drive it, bike it, walk it and most of all, enjoy it. Pick and mix from the road maps and the myriad of websites now available. As Jeff Ruemmele said on his blog, "If you spend the time to travel Scotland you will not regret it. The people are warm and friendly and curious. You will be enchanted, I promise."